A Cold Day at Montmartre Among Other Strange Happenings
Bon Dimanche,
Happy Sunday to everyone. It’s quite cold here in the upper 30’s and low 40’s always with a slight mist in the air. Yesterday’s outing was to Montmartre, my favorite place in Paris. However, I must admit that I much prefer summertime there.
What happened along the way is the real story. It’s a long subway ride and as Bernie was entering the car to change at Concorde, a man created a big fuss stepping on at the same time when he dropped his glasses. I was already on and was calling out that it was a scam but no one heard or paid attention until about 30 minutes later a defeated Bernie said, “Well, he got the 300 euros out of my front pocket!” It was unbelievable that he left Bernie’s money clip but took the bills. It pays once in a while to listen to me. They should have pushed him off the train which I would have done! I’m not shy when protecting my space in Paris. This makes the third time we’ve been personally hit by pickpockets.
When we tried to exit at the Abessess stop, the subway police were there checking tix and James and Andrew got stopped. A very aggressive and unyielding lady refused to listen to our explanations about how the tix had just been bought, etc. etc. etc. She was NOT letting them go through. Bernie had to pay 35 euros for each of them to pass which was infuriating. It was a costly morning…370 euros. Though Paris is great, it’s certainly not perfect. BUT everything becomes a good story, mais oui?
Here’s a look at a December Montmartre. It was jammed just like summertime…too many people. We queued up for about 15 minutes to get inside Le Sacre Coeur, the beautiful tiled basilica.
We were off to lunch at a very famous place called La Bonne Franquette, rowdy and fun. La bonne franquette is an old-fashioned French phrase describing something as simple or unfussy without any risk of insult. The food is average but we enjoyed ourselves.
Across the street is probably the nicest shop on the mountain filled with ceramics. I tried to highlight only the Christmas items.
We walked up to the wonderful little Musée de Montmartre which most folks never see. It tells the fascinating history of the “butte” or mountain. Make sure to check it out. Montmartre’s history includes the limestone quarries, the circus, the windmills and the Bohemian art and impressionist artists. The museum also is your only good view of the one remaining vineyard in Paris. Take the time to read all the commentary.
Perhaps the most fun event of the day was this Italian lady joining in with the singer on the street where the organ grinder used to play years ago!
So a wild and crazy day. We finished with the Four Seasons concert at Eglise St. Paul, St. Louis last evening. Thanks, Jamie, for the tickets. It was very nice, but a little long.
Bernie has developed a bad cold because being a military guy, he refuses to wear a hat in the rain and the cold. Give him hell in the comments because he doesn’t listen to me.
A bientôt
L & B
P.S. The first blog did not post correctly. It was missing all the photos for some reason.
Cynthia Ludwig
December 15, 2024 @ 1:42 pm
You are not short of stories this trip! So sorry to hear about Bernie’s being robbed and then having to fork over more money due to confusion regarding the tickets. I always enjoy following your trips to Montmartre. It is a delightful place! Sorry can’t help you with Bernie and proper attire for the weather. It sounds like a similar story in my household. Carry on my friend! Love, Cindi
lspalla
December 15, 2024 @ 3:52 pm
Thanks, my friend. It’s been some challenging times.
Peggy M. Bilbro
December 15, 2024 @ 4:04 pm
All beautiful photos, and what a fun little store! We love the Musée Montmartre. Bernie is just too good hearted a guy. Being pick-pocketed in Paris is a long tradition we all try to avoid. Glad your fall yesterday didn’t keep you down today.
lspalla
December 15, 2024 @ 4:22 pm
It’s a miracle that I didn’t fracture a small bone given my severe osteoporosis
Kathryn mahoney
December 15, 2024 @ 9:17 pm
Has been a fantastic voyage with you. Sorry for your experience on subway. notre Dame was a real yreat
Ellyn
December 16, 2024 @ 9:20 am
Your pictures are terrific. But Im so sorry you. got pickpocketed. That is always an expensive lesson. And seems to happen so often in Paris. I dont think we see that in NYC, I have never had it happen to me. I am so careful in Paris. I worry most of all about my phone, the days of the free or really cheap phones are over. the one thing I warn people about here is not to walk around and talk on a cell. I never use my phone in the street or on the subway. One is too easily distracted and not aware of what is around. That is also true in any big city. Okay, onward. May that be the only time! The Metro seems to be particularly a “dangerous” place. What I usually do is stay where there are fewer people . at the ends of the train. but you know that. Well, we’re getting your rain now. We havent had rain for a long time, and now were are n the midst of a storm that started this morning. Its about 30 degrees and raining. Id rather be in Paris… Enjoy! Angelinas is good if you are really cold.! Take care., I hope you have recovered from your fall and are dancing around!
Alison Smith
December 16, 2024 @ 2:32 pm
Good morning Linda, I am so enjoying your blog, all of it just fascinating but I especially enjoy the Christmas decor. Been to Paris years ago for 2 short trips in spring and fall. So I am truly enjoying your Christmas pics. BTW this am NBC had a short segment on the return of the Crown of Thorns to Notre Dame.