Reflections on Year Eleven in Paris

Bonjour mes amis,

Our time here is ending and like every other year, I write a final blog about insights and reflections we hope you will find interesting.

The weather has affected our time here more than ever before.  It has rained 3 times in 49 days, twice of those at night and all three just a stingy rain.  Paris needs days of steady downpours to catch up.  The town is very dusty, very dirty with pollen in the air that has never been cleared away.  The leaves are falling off the trees like autumn and the grass in such places as Vaux le Vicomte, the chateau we visited on Tuesday, is dead out in the gardens. Green spaces are almost not green, where usually they are vibrant and beautiful. You suffered through our 100-degree days with us which was awful and put a downer on the desire to be out and about.

We have never stayed this late in August before, and we notice more and more shops and restaurants are closed until the end of the month.  It’s nice in a way with less traffic and fewer people but also kind of weird.  Many of the friends we’ve made are on vacation so we haven’t had the visits we generally enjoy. The company of the Bilbros has been wonderful. Paris is meant to be shared, and we’ve loved having some buddies to enhance our adventure.

This year by design, we’ve had no live-in company because our apartment is only one bedroom and one bath.  It’s been fine, but it is tiny and just big enough for the two of us. That has been VERY different. Last year was our marathon year for company, and it was such fun. With the uncertainty about my knee, I thought it best to take it a little easy, and we have. But I must say that I have missed the anticipation of having folks around and showing them the city that we love. Unfortunately, next year will be much the same as we have had difficulty in booking accommodations because of the European Cup in late May and early June in Paris. We will be back in this apartment for half of our time and in a tiny spot above our usual apartment for the other half. So another different year is coming down the pike. Friends and family are so welcome but alas will have to stay in a hotel.

I think the economy has Paris feeling a bit downtrodden.  Folks are struggling, the homeless continue to be present, the litter has increased along with the doggie poop, and the dusty dryness hasn’t helped any of that. I think the terrorist attack added to some of the insecure tension.  There is an increased presence of armed members of the French Army walking around  in groups of 3 to 5.  I guess it has made us feel safer but also feels “un-Paris”. Unemployment is high, jobs are hard to come by and businesses come and go. Just like at home, things change from year to year.

This has been our very best year for value.  The dollar has been worth 91 cents against the euro which has been fantastic.  We’ve been here when it was worth about 56 cents!  That’s painful. Oops, just went down a little – now worth 89 cents.

Paris continues to be cleaner in public areas like the train stations and shopping malls, and the restrooms in restaurants continue to get better and better compared to our earlier trips. People try very hard to keep things clean just like I do in our apartment, but there is a constant fine, black dust that settles everywhere. It’s almost a futile effort!

We’ve heard that the “government” has tried to limit the musicians playing in the subways, streets, public areas which is a shame! That’s such a big part of the Parisian ambiance. I think it has to do with an issue of fairness that a certain group takes up residence in the same spot over and over again, keeping others from having a chance.  I’ve done some research and here’s a better understanding: http://throwingmyarmsaroundparis.com/2013/08/20/so-you-think-you-can-busk-in-paris-eight-trade-secrets-from-a-pro-not-me/.

Busking is the art of making money off the streets in order to achieve fame. The city offers 300 slots for which you must purchase a license good for one year. That’s not a lot of places for such a large city!

The service in restaurants has been faster this year it seems to me which is a sign, whether good or bad, of catering to Americans.  However, even with this, dinner can still be a wonderful 2-3 hours.  I have seen more and more burgers on menus which distresses me no end. I don’t want Paris to become just like America!  It must keep its distinctive cuisine.

We have seen beaucoup de bra straps, panties peeking out from very short shorts and tatoos on every part of the body. I’m old-fashioned when it comes to all of that and lament what has happened to fashion. Once in a while a really nicely-dressed woman will appear, and it’s a breath of fresh air. But for the most part, it’s just a bunch of “rags” without style or taste. The shoes are the exception. Stilettos are everywhere and gorgeous. But the tennis shoes and flipflops are also plentiful!

Some of our best experiences this year were visiting Bernie’s cousins in Soultz and linking up with our new Parisian friend Ann. I look forward to building a long-time friendship with her. She found us last year on the blog. Our other best experiences were dinners with two established friends, Richard Nahem (EYEPREFERPARIS) and Chantal, our neighbor on rue St. Paul. Truly wonderful to share times with them.

Almost every day, we have called out a name and a memory from past years when some of you have visited:  Terry & Herb, Barbara & Lee, Barbara Buice, Jan & Tony, Charles & Judy, Jeanie Thompson, Curt & Diane, Pierre & Laurie, the Burritt cruisers, James and Stephen and my children Chris & Nancy.  As we walk this street or visit that spot or eat in a particular restaurant or café, we laugh about a pleasant memory.  Oh, the stories we have! How rich we are and how blessed.  Thanks to all of you for writing across the tapestry of our Paris life.

Speaking of stories, yesterday at Montmartre, Bernie was approached by a television crew for an interview on Channel 2 which is the biggie here in Paris.  It was a story on buying artwork out on the street.  Unfortunately, it will not air until Saturday or Sunday, and we will be gone!  But it was fun and another memory.  We also ran into the same 92-year old lady near La Maison Rose just like last year.  She remembered Bernie and they had a nice chat!  Amazing.

Since here, I’ve had two rejections from potential agents on my book but with some very helpful feedback. I will continue to write, edit and reframe the book. Hopefully one of these days, I’ll get something to click. It’s very difficult to get a book published especially one on a topic as well-worn as Paris.

I will miss walking to the grocery every day, church bells, the river, the tingling of bus bells, the people-watching at sidewalk cafés, Pont Marie and of course, sharing Bernie’s love for his home town. He is never happier than when he’s here. We have felt our age this year a little more than before but what can we expect?  Bernie especially does amazingly well for going on 76!

To all of you, thanks for being faithful readers of my blog.  It’s a great deal of work but something I love doing. And thanks to Bernie for dragging around his heavy camera every day, all day, to delight us with his wonderful photography.

Stay tuned.  There’s next year to look forward to, and we’ll always have Paris.

Au revoir,

Linda & Bernie

P.S.  One last chuckle for you.  It’s very cool and rainy this morning!