Au Revoir and Thanks for the Memories
Bonjour mes ami,
This is always a difficult post, and I work on it for days to find the right words graced with tenderness.
It’s time to say good-bye to Paris, to you who have faithfully read the blog, to you who kindly made supportive comments (some almost every day), to our cherished local friends here, to all of our company this year, to all the memories.
Our two-month stay kicked off with a bad omen…a broken foot! We survived. Then there was the vertigo which meant no ear plugs for me to thwart the snoring and ensure good sleep. But we survived. And of course, the hilarious comedy of errors on our Normandy trip. Then there have been stomach issues for me to address when we return to the USA. Bernie’s wrists and my feet are consumed with arthritis and daily pain which we have simply chosen to ignore. We survived it all but not without some kicking and screaming and the damnable acknowledgment of our aging bodies. BUT we’d rather age here than at home, mais oui? We’ve had a 20-year run in Paris. Imagine that! Perhaps it’s time to turn out the lights, so to speak, or as Kenny Rogers sings, “You gotta know when to fold ‘em.” Bernie insists that he will return one more time at the end of 2024 to see Notre Dame renovated and beautiful again. We shall see.
With travel on the upswing around the globe, many people are planning trips to Europe including Paris. I thought it might be helpful to address expectations you should have before coming which hopefully will make your visit more enjoyable. If you’re planning to see Paris this year or for the Olympics, put these tips and observations under your pillow.
—Rule number one is to remember that Paris is not America. That sounds so simple that it’s almost ridiculous. I’m amazed at how shocked Americans are, for example, when they find that all the books in bookstores are in French! Or that you have to ask for ice, or that you don’t move café chairs and tables yourself. Or sometimes, you have to pay a euro for a clean restroom. You have to tilt your sails, my friends, to catch the wind that blows here, not at home. The subtleties of life are different, a bit harder, a major cultural upending, and a whole new definition of time. People don’t care what you wear (and they wear less and less!), don’t care who you love, what color your hair is, what color your skin is, how many tattoos you have, whether you believe in abortion, God, or climate change. They are accepting and tolerant of most of the issues that put Americans so at odds with each other. They DO care immensely about politeness, holding open doors, excusing one’s self for everything, offering up a Metro seat to an older person (ugh!) and opening every conversation with a friendly “Bonjour.” To enter a shop without saying “Bonjour” is an insult just like leaving without saying, “Merci, au revoir or bonne journée.”
—The French are miles ahead of us on protecting the environment having done away with plastic bags and plastic straws years ago. The recycling process here is amazing. They conserve water and energy very diligently and yes, much of that is enforced by the government. If you get an apartment here, participate, conserve and recycle.
—The city is jammed, especially Le Marais, with very crowded Metros. Expect brief delays and leave a little early for appointments. There are traffic jams or bouchons just when you’re in a hurry. Download an app that will keep you updated on Metro issues. I use one called Citymapper.
—The really great news about Paris is that almost everyone speaks English to some degree. That is mostly wonderful but beware of listening ears if your comments are not meant to be overheard.
—Beware of bicycles and scooters coming at you from all sides. You must look in both directions always which goes against our natural orientation to look to the right! The bicyclists don’t abide by traffic rules, red lights, etc. and they go as fast as the cars. This is a huge change for us and one we very much dislike. We understand the reasoning behind decreasing carbon emissions but at present, the execution is dangerous. Only 2 or 3 people out of 10 have on a helmet!
—Even such things as eating schedules are different. Breakfast for locals is a leisurely café au lait and croissant about 10am, lunch anywhere from 1-4pm and dinner from 8-11pm. I don’t know about you, but that’s not my usual routine in Huntsville, Alabama. Shops might open at 10, might open at 11am, might close for an hour or two at lunch with a little note on the door to let you know when they will return. Many are closed on Mondays.
—School children start school at 8:30, take a 2-hour lunch break at 11:30, (some go home, some grab a sandwich from a patisserie, etc.) and then dismiss at 4:30. They also go until the end of June and have 2 months for vacation. Adults take their vacation in August and life slows a bit, though not as much as in former days.
—Parisians get 5 stars for how they treat the homeless. They offer a baguette, a carry-out meal, a pizza, they sit down on the ground for a conversation with them. It’s really quite touching.
—There’s nothing like the French café but understand that seating is never roomy. The tables are extremely close together, and the French think nothing of it. This is quite off-putting to Americans because we are used to so much space. Accept and adapt!
—You are expected to eat everything you are served, and you may find that your waiter will quiz you about why you didn’t…in a nice way.
—By all means, ride the Metro. It’s the quickest and least expensive mode of transportation. There are lots of apps which tell you exactly what to do. Learn how to look for the numbered exits which get you close to your destination. Uber or taxis expose you to traffic delays. The Metro generally runs every 2-3 minutes.
—The toilette is rarely on the main floor of a restaurant or cafe. “En haut”means upstairs and “en bas” means below. “Ou sont les toilettes?” “Where’s the bathroom?” is a phrase to learn. And “pee-pee” is a perfectly acceptable phrase in France.
—French desserts are scrumptious but have less sugar, a lesson for Americans.
—Women openly breastfeed their babies and no one stares. So don’t be shocked, just go with the flow.
—French hotels almost never have two beds in one room. You have to hunt for these and pay dearly for that convenience.
—Drains are often very slow especially in apartment showers or tubs because the plumbing is very old. Go to the Monoprix and purchase some drain declogger for a couple of euros.
—Oh, the dogs and the dog poop. It’s prevalent in certain arrondissements so learn to sidestep it because it’s not going to change. Yes, people are supposed to pick up after their pets, but mostly they don’t.
—Bring your own wash clothes because generally there are none. Unless you’re staying at a 5-star hotel, your towels will be thin and a bit scrawny. You’ll adjust.
—The streets of Paris are beginning to look just like America which is so terribly sad to me. Expanding waistlines are prevalent due to portion sizes that are double and triple what they used to be, fast food (burgers and fries) and more and more places to eat. For example, on rue St. Paul, where the precious local shops used to be (like the Thanksgiving store) are now mostly dessert shops or pizza places. Food, it seems, rules the world, and we are certainly reaping the negative health effects.
—Sadly, Paris has its share of litter and fewer workers since the pandemic to clean the streets. It is hard to see this; just don’t contribute to the problem.
—In this bustling city, people walk very fast on the sidewalks and in the Metro. Never stand on the left as you’re going up an escalator because younger people climb the stairs instead of enjoying the ride.
—Since the pandemic, almost everything in Paris requires a reservation, whether it’s an entry ticket to Le Louvre, a dinner reservation, a river cruise, or a trip up the Arc de Triomphe or La Tour Eiffel. It is aggravating and time consuming, but it is what it is and likely will not change. Do your research and know which museums are closed on which days. For example, the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays which is a great day to go to Montmartre when the crowds are smaller.
—Lastly, give yourself a break especially if traveling with spouses or family. When things don’t go well, tempers flare, anxiety increases, and suddenly you might wish you hadn’t come. Lay that aside instead for a walk along the river or a cool glass of wine at a café. “Just relax a bit” as Bernie would say and suddenly the magic of Paris will smooth the rough edges.
Maybe that in a phrase is what Paris does for the soul!
Hope these tips are helpful and interesting. Perhaps you have others to share. Moving and grooving with the French culture instead of fighting or complaining about it will ensure a much better visit.
Our goodbye place has always been Pont Marie. Our tradition has been to linger in the middle of that ancient bridge to soak in a setting sun amid teary good-byes on our final night. I can’t even begin to imagine what it will feel like to consider that I may not be back to this place I’ve grown to love. There is potent grief. Thank you Paris, for giving me so many stories to share, so much love to enfold into my blog, so much joy and laughter shared with so many. The echoes of Paris will always remain a lyric in my soul song. I will always have our photos and the memories with this man I have been blessed to share my life with here in the city where his began. It has been a love for the ages!
Au revoir to all!
Linda
June 28, 2023 @ 3:48 am
So glad we were part of the journey – twice. Thank you for sharing your Paris with us. We love you both.
June 28, 2023 @ 3:55 am
May your next journey be as rewarding as what you have done for us but letting us be a part of your life.
June 28, 2023 @ 8:39 am
Thank you for a lovely two months set in “MY” Paris. After having been a student there and then living and working there for years, I had planned on going back yeaRLY. But life gets in the way, and while I do go back it is not as often as I wish! Much to my regret, I didnt buy an apt there years ago! Big mistake.. I had to laugh at some of your comments, I live in NYC, and while Paris is not NY, some of the problems are the same, People on bikes do not obey traffic laws in NYC either they are supposed to. but .. Bicycles are an enormous nuisance. people here do wear helmets however, Big fines if you dont!
Anyway, have a good year and I hope to read your blog again next summer.
Merci mille fois, et bon retour à la maison!
June 28, 2023 @ 8:41 am
would you also give me the nane of your book…Thanks
June 28, 2023 @ 8:55 am
Bernie’s Paris is the name of my book, and it’s on Amazon. Thanks for being such a faithful reader. Have a great rest of the summer!
June 28, 2023 @ 9:25 am
Thank you, thank you for sharing another visit to Paris with you and Bernie. Your writing is second best to being there, and the pictures, exquisite! I’m not sure I will ever return to that beautiful city but sharing your stories removes some of the sting of that possibility. Travel home safely! Au revoir!
June 28, 2023 @ 10:59 am
Merci for your kind words!
June 28, 2023 @ 9:56 am
The pictures in the post tell a wonderful story! Safe travels home! Love you both
June 28, 2023 @ 10:58 am
Thanks, Son. Miss you guys and hope to see you before the summer is over. Enjoy the beach!
June 28, 2023 @ 9:58 am
I’ve enjoyed your posts more than ever this time and hope you and Bernie go back one more time, at least.
This post sums up what Americans need to know on their visits there. Thanks for all these tips and happy travels home!
June 28, 2023 @ 10:58 am
Thank you, Beth. Lunch soon!
June 28, 2023 @ 10:24 am
Bon jour! I look forward every year to your blog and your insights on Paris and snapshots of your stay. My husband and I love Paris and have been lucky enough to enjoy four vacations there always in December. We have plans to go again in late November! I tell friends maybe someday I will see Paris with leaves on the trees. Regardless of when you visit, Paris has its own rhythm and abundant charm!
You and Bernie have embodied joie de vivre on each of your trips, so my favorite theme photo is that of you and Bernie on the metro!
Merci and bon voyage!
June 28, 2023 @ 10:57 am
Merci beaucoup! Enjoy your December trip!
June 28, 2023 @ 10:58 am
All good things must come to an end. My hope for you and Bernie is that while this year’s trip is coming to and end, perhaps you both have one more trip to Paris in you. Perhaps a slower paced, less hurried trip could work. I suppose time will tell. Thank you for letting us follow along this trip. It has been most enjoyable! Look forward to seeing you both soon.
June 28, 2023 @ 11:53 am
Yes, lunch soon.
June 28, 2023 @ 11:11 am
Yes, I have enjoyed reading and seeing of your Paris adventures. Thank you. Looking forward to seeing you back in Huntsville.
June 28, 2023 @ 11:28 am
This beautiful posting brought tears. How dare our bodies get old? But the memories, stories and photos will stay young forever. Thanks for share and love to you both.
June 28, 2023 @ 11:52 am
Much love back!
June 28, 2023 @ 11:47 am
Beautifully written – as always!!
June 28, 2023 @ 11:52 am
Merci!
June 28, 2023 @ 11:54 am
Lovely words and also very wise words for the travellers amongst us. We do very much hope to see you both again in Paris in 2024, otherwise we will have to jump on a plane ourselves!
With love to you both,
Malcolm and Antonia X
June 28, 2023 @ 2:35 pm
Please do come to Huntsville! Plenty of space to give you lodging and some good restaurants. Not exactly Paris but what could compare?
June 28, 2023 @ 11:57 am
Thank you again for your wonderful posts. It makes my heart full of Paris Love to read your blogs each day. May your trip home be safe and healthy and may you definitely get back to Paris to see Notre Dame completed!
June 28, 2023 @ 12:11 pm
Beautiful ending for a wonderful series of blogs. Thanks for sharing it all.
June 28, 2023 @ 12:26 pm
I too, along with many others have enjoyed your blogs. We have been blessed beyond words to be able to have visited you and Bernie twice, What wonderful memories we have of those trips. Thanks so much for sharing 20 years with all of us, it has been a joy to “travel” with you!! Safe travels home and I do hope that there is one more trip in you to see Notre Dame finished and beautiful again in all her splendor.
June 28, 2023 @ 12:39 pm
This is probably not original but as Bob Hope used to say; “Thanks For The Memories”. I shall miss following your experiences along with my morning joe.
But, we can surely keep in touch with email along with Marlyn and Monica.
Fred & Beverly
June 28, 2023 @ 12:59 pm
Hello Linda and Bernie,
What a wonderful time I’ve had in Paris traveling with you, your friends and family. You have kept up quite a pace. One, I think I couldn’t have done, day after day. You have given us so much to enjoy, even when you weren’t so joyful yourself. Thanks you Linda, I’ll miss these posts. I do hope there is a way for you and Bernie to return again. Adjusting to a slower pace could help. I know the feeling of “is this the last time I’ll do this?” Keep hope alive.
Best wishes as you return to Huntsville. I’m sure you lead as active a life there as you do in Paris. In October, if all goes right, I’ll have a glass of wine or a lunch at some of the places you’ve highlighted this visit.
À Bientôt
Bonnie
June 28, 2023 @ 1:01 pm
Much love & thank you for giving me a glimpse of this wonderful city!
June 28, 2023 @ 1:05 pm
thanks for the blogs. They always bring back many memories. Safe travels home.
❤❤
June 28, 2023 @ 1:29 pm
Two thumbs up! One from Sybil and the other from me. Well done, L. Thank you.
June 28, 2023 @ 1:51 pm
You have also made wonderful memories for all of us! Loved your travel tips. All were excellent. I am grateful that these years have been blessed for you two. What marvelous surprises life brings!
Nancy
June 28, 2023 @ 2:00 pm
Thank you so much for taking us along on your journey. I have loved all the photos and shall miss reading of your adventures. Best to you and Bernie.
June 28, 2023 @ 2:12 pm
Oh Linda and Bernie, I do not have the words to express how much I have thoroughly enjoyed your blogs every morning with my coffee! To have those moments living vicariously through you in beautiful Paris have been wonderful. And I have reminisced and also learned so much.
Your summary and tips today are appreciated, although I do not think I will be returning due to aging and health issues. I hope they encourage our friends on here to travel there. Paris is my #1 favorite city.
Loved meeting your family and friends and all the great pictures of your experiences and adventures together!
Safe travels home. I wish you the best. Thank you, thank you!!
Ann Wiles
June 28, 2023 @ 2:12 pm
Linda, it has been my joy and privilege to follow along. Merci mille fois, Carla
June 28, 2023 @ 2:21 pm
Outstanding summary, and we have seen so much of it, too!! Love to you both, and safe travels!
June 28, 2023 @ 3:49 pm
This is only my 2nd year reading your blog and I have enjoyed learning about Paris through your words and pictures.
Thank you for your memories. It is a trip I I hope to take one year.
June 28, 2023 @ 4:58 pm
Never Say Never! Perhaps your next visit to Paris will call for slowing down, reading in a parc, and napping through a hot afternoon. Maybe tell visitors to just find their own way around while you have that glass of wine and take that nap. I do hope this isn’t the end of those small pleasures, but if it is, you will have twenty years of memories to warm your heart. I’ve enjoyed Paris vicariously through your blog. We will just have to sit down and reminisce together.
June 28, 2023 @ 5:27 pm
I think I’m ALMOST as sad as the two of you each year when your joyful time in Paris ends. How I love reading daily your poetic writing and seeing photos of family and friends enjoying each day with you! Never say goodbye forever, my friend, to the city your love so dearly. I predict you will find a way to enjoy it again and again! Hope to see you and Bernie here for dinner one day soon!
June 28, 2023 @ 5:47 pm
Thank You Linda and Bernie for sharing your love for Paris with all of us. I wish I could better express myself because Thank You isn’t enough when it comes to all the places you have taken us and make each one of us part of this lovely adventure that started 20 years ago with a two week all expenses paid. Who would think you would be publishing a book and having so many traveling friends. May Bernie’s wish come true and we may read your blogs “One more time” in 2024. Safe travels.
June 28, 2023 @ 6:27 pm
Dear Linda and Bernie, we will be so sorry not to meet up with you in Paris! That makes me very sad. Have a good and safe trip back. Take good care of your health on your return and let’s stay in touch.
Our love to you both,
Antonia and Malcolm xx
June 28, 2023 @ 6:46 pm
Thanks for sharing your wonderful experiences. Safe journey home.
June 28, 2023 @ 8:20 pm
Linda and Bernie
What joy I have had seeing Paris with you through your pictures, your wonderful adventurous spirits, your hearts and your love for Paris and each other.
Priceless!
Jemalee
June 28, 2023 @ 10:07 pm
Never has the statement All good things must come to an end been so pertinent, and relatable. Tho we have both never felt better, we truly slow down by the end of the day, even just doing virtually nothing around town, compared to your Energizer Bunny ventures. Yes, it’s age and we all must succumb, whether we want or not. I have been amazed over the last couple months how you have kept going. But oh the memories you will always have, and how thrilled we were to have shared visits over there with you. May the angels guide you safely home for a LOT of R and R. Love you both. Hope to get together soon.
June 29, 2023 @ 4:01 am
Oh Linda!
I don’t have adequate words for the joy I have experienced through your eyes.
I pray that this won’t be your last Spring in Paris. I pray your and Bernie’s health will allow.
God bless you two with safe travels home, and in all that you do in the beautiful life you share together!♥️♥️
June 29, 2023 @ 7:29 am
The “magic of Paris” does seem to smooth the rough edges; I like that. You have such a way with words. I’m eager to have time to pop back and read about June…things have been wild here since I returned. I am beyond grateful for the opportunity-multiple times- to share life w y’all in Paris. I am forever changed, truly. (I was also thinking back to how the blog started…emails only. Once or twice we would schedule a phone call. Now we can communicate effortlessly aside of the time diff). I esp enjoyed your early years of “learning the ropes” of Paris- quite entertaining! This is definitely a legacy that I will always have to reflect back on. Maybe you’ll work it out to make a quick pop-over to see Notre Dam completed. Your encore trip! I’m amazed at your twenty years, your stamina, your perseverance, Bernie’s patience, your love for each other, your ability to age gracefully even though slammed with new challenges. I will probably think of you in a Paris-fashioned Heaven, on that quaint back street of Montmartre, when a call, FaceTime. email, marco or text can no longer reach you. Wish we could stay young forever. Thank you for furthering my thirst for travel, Mom and Bernie. Love y’all!!
June 29, 2023 @ 8:57 am
Natalie, this is beautiful and worth a million dollars to me. Love you so much!!!
Mom
June 29, 2023 @ 1:13 pm
I hope this works as I’ve never tried to leave a comment on my page…ha! To all of you, thanks for these beautiful responses to my final blog. I haven’t had time to respond to each of them individually. We are packed and will be off Friday morning at 7:30 in a taxi to Orly. Merci beaucoup!!
June 29, 2023 @ 3:20 pm
I will so miss seeing Paris through your eyes each year! What a treat! Wonderful for yall and all your friends and family to have this ‘experience’ to share. Thank You!!! Betsy
June 29, 2023 @ 5:15 pm
Dear Linda,
What a lovely, and moving tribute to Paris, to your friends and audience, and to your love affair with Bernie.
Thank you so much for all of the time and effort you have expended writing your delightful Paris blog and sharing priceless photos each trip. I don’t think I have missed a single one in all these years!
Wishing you safe travels home. We hope to see you soon.
Gratefully,
Dorcas
June 29, 2023 @ 10:45 pm
U have often told me that
Paris (and,I suppose,all of Europe) isn’t for the differently-abled.Ur blog has been a godsend for me!
June 30, 2023 @ 2:40 am
I am thrilled to hear you say that, Amy. Warms my heart. Love you!!
June 30, 2023 @ 2:47 pm
I love the ability to travel through your blog. Thank you! I hope it stays up a few weeks more as I would like to go back and review some of the pix and your writing…. Just to enjoy again.
July 1, 2023 @ 9:16 am
Betsy, it should be a permanent archive. Go to blog in the menu on the home page and there should be numbered pages at the bottom. I pay for this storage so hopefully it will be there. Merci, my friend.