Bonjour,
What a glorious morning outside as I look out our window onto the peaceful courtyard. Cooler temps today with a high of only 80; however, the rain did not show up last evening which is so desperately needed in this dry, dry city.
Yesterday was a day of foiled expectations which can happen even in Paris. We have always loved a little café which is upstairs in the Renault dealership on the Champs. Yes, that’s right, a cafe in a car showroom on the most famous street in Paris! Amid colorful neon lights, it was a delight. We made a reservation because the space is tight especially up next to the huge windows nearest the street where we like to sit. When we arrived, there was no one at any of the tables! No menu except for the QR scan which is typical now in Paris. The waiter informed us that they only offered little snacks now; the very nice menu was “finished.” It used to be a place for business lunches in a cool, quiet atmosphere. We had only some tiny little Croques and a few chips with a small cake and coffee. It was a disappointment for sure, but it was air-conditioned and very quiet, two things we enjoy! The view is still fun but the neon lights are gone.
We stepped across Les Champs to the Galeries Lafayette to see what if anything had changed there, thinking that maybe we should have gone to their café on the second floor overlooking the street. Alas, it was also gone! Just a drink bar now. The gourmet food section in the basement was also sparse with fewer places to eat and an entire wall of pre-prepared take-away foods. The Alain Ducasse chocolate shop, however, is still there!
So what is the message from all of this? My takeaway is the devastating aftermath of the pandemic has taken a subtle toll on Paris. If you know it well, you see the signs. The Renault cafe was completely closed for over a year. It’s got to be hard to rebound from that. I’m sure major retailers are getting rid of any fluff and trying to make a profit. Prior to 2019, everything was pulsing in Paris, over the top with vigor and excitement. Now it seems a bit of a struggle, less energy, less vibrant.
Make no mistake, however; Paris is still Paris. It has survived much harder challenges than these last couple of years, and it will survive and grow strong again. They are banking on the 2024 Olympics to help with that! We’re just glad to be here even with occasional disappointments. C’est la vie.
Do it one more time.
Stimulate your muscles.
Your body will thank you.
Almost to the top.
Congratulations!
The best part of my day was finding some $20 (20 euro!) sunglasses after breaking a pair of mine.
Here’s some café chairs and a doggie stretched out down below us on the Champs trying to stay cool.
I fear I may be wearing you out with these posts. Let me know!!
Have a great day!
L & B
August 26, 2022 @ 8:31 am
I think you are right about the subtle changes in Paris. Perhaps also because it is a city full of young people, who are not into the leisurely dining we enjoy. They like to grab something and go sit along the river or in a park and share with friends. New generation, new ways! We were so happy to find that one of our favorite restaurants, des Gars Dan le Cuisine has returned as good as ever. The owner did say the pandemic had been terribly difficult for them. They were completely closed for seven months during the worst of it, then they just did carry-out, but now are back to normal. Thank goodness!
August 26, 2022 @ 9:26 am
You are NOT WEARING ME OUT!! I love your posts and your pics and all your Paris thoughts! Keep it up! I love waking up to your blog❤️
August 26, 2022 @ 10:45 am
I think every city, town, village has changed since 2020, but the changes are more noticeable in places we visit and don’t see every day. I don’t know how retail and dining establishments anywhere survived the pandemic! What a struggle it must have been on top of the daily worries about health, especially for family-run places. That is a special level of determination and strength!
I could never tire of your posts! They are thoughtfully written and insightful and the photos are wonderful!
August 26, 2022 @ 10:51 am
I suspect Peggy’s observations are perhaps true. As the post COVID era unfolds and the next generation of tourists and locals emerge they are looking for different experiences. The merchants have had to adjust as well. The rich history reflected in museums, churches, and neighborhoods is still alive even with the changes, and well worth the trip.
August 26, 2022 @ 11:07 am
Linda, you will never be wearing us out with these posts! I thoroughly enjoy them each day.
It is like living in Paris, one of my favorite cities!!!
August 26, 2022 @ 11:27 am
Wear us out? Never! This is the most fun way to start a day. So interesting to see how the pandemic is affecting other parts of the world. Things are still “different” here, too– especially with every restaurant and many businesses with “Help Wanted” signs– but sometimes Americans want to get back to “normal” way too soon. My opinion. Sorry about the Renault restaurant. We remember it from other years of your posts.
August 26, 2022 @ 11:50 am
Not wearing us out at all. I appreciate reading them each morning. Today, you even helped me with my French which I may need in Montreal in a couple of months.
August 26, 2022 @ 11:54 am
I don’t comment often but want you to know, I love your daily commentary on a city I love…the changes, the beauty, the food, the parks, the museums, the shopping, the cafe chairs, the dogs, the transportation, the hidden alleyways and courtyards, the famous monuments and churches…thank you for allowing your readers to vicariously enjoy the city with you and your friends every summer!
August 26, 2022 @ 12:15 pm
Thanks for all the posts Linda! Keep them coming:) Enjoy every one and share with my parents who traveled to Paris many times over the years. Memories of all their travels is what my father remembers best and is one of the few topics that we can still can converse on. Merci mon ami
August 26, 2022 @ 12:39 pm
I’m enjoying your posts so much. A few days ago, you mentioned something about a scam. What happened there? When you got the notification four days before you arrived that you’d have a different apartment, was that a scam?
August 26, 2022 @ 12:41 pm
You are not wearing me out!! I awake, come down to my convalescent nest in the sunroom and eagerly read your posts. I sympathize with your challenges due to changes of all kinds. Wouldn’t it be grand if the good things never changed?!
August 26, 2022 @ 12:54 pm
Have friend visiting for weekend.She led tours ,when our children were in high school , to Europe.. Can’t’wait to show her your days in Paris.
August 26, 2022 @ 1:54 pm
Again, just small detail like the messages on the steps make a difference and set the tone. I’m sure those that read your articles and that visit Paris will benefit from tips you give on cool and quiet places to relax and recharge. Thank you
August 26, 2022 @ 2:50 pm
Linda, like so many others who comment here, I never get tired of your posts. I look forward to reading your blog every day, and to sharing your Paris! Do keep it up. It is all so interesting.
August 27, 2022 @ 1:39 pm
I join all the others who share the joy of reading your posts. I am confined as a caregiver at present and your posts, as well as those of others lucky enough to enjoy travel, lift my spirits and make my heart smile.