Magical Day in Le Marais
Bonjour,
Before I begin today’s post, let me clarify about an ER visit in Paris. Since I have no doctor here, going to the ER is the only option for any kind of medical care. I had a mild infection which would have continued to worsen without an antibiotic. The issue was not something I could treat myself. I am feeling much, much better!! Thanks for your concerns.
Thwarting our plan to go to Montmartre because of rain (which never came), we opted to visit a new spot in Paris on Quai Henri IV. Bernie’s cousin, Laurie, had sent along the information about a grand, 5-star hotel called Le Félicité. It was easy to find. It’s a rather unattractive, huge office-type building on the exterior but magnificent on the interior. It was well-guarded and difficult to convince the doorman that we wanted to eat at their restaurant Bonnie. He finally let us in, but alas the restaurant is booked up for several weeks. I did have the opportunity to snap some quick photos. It reportedly has a spa, swimming pool, shopping area, roof-top bar and several nice restaurants. The message was loud and clear that it is not a tourist destination unless you’re a patron of the hotel. Bernie caught a glimpse of the room rates which range from 450-1000 euros per night!
The Sully-Morland/Henri IV area of the Marais is so quaint with very narrow, winding streets that are chocked full of history. Here’s a tidbit for you that is embarrassingly humorous. One of the tiny rues is Rue Du Petit Musc which we have walked dozens of time. Both of us thought it said Music, not Musc. Suddenly at lunch as I was staring at the street sign, I said, “Bernie, what is a Musc?”That began quite a discussion with our waitress (who had no idea) followed by an internet search. Here is what we found.
Though it seems like a perfectly normal street, the name hides a secret. In 1358, the street had a different name, “Pue-y-Muse” meaning “the whore strolls here.” A few letters were added later “Pute-y-Musse” which meant the whore was hiding there instead of strolling on this very narrow and dirty street. It is definitely a play on words with “Musc,” the French word for musk which has a distinct odor (originating from a musk deer ‘s sexual organs.) I’ll leave the rest to your imagination…ha!
On Rue Du Petit Musc is a fabulous restaurant called Le Temps des Cerises or The Season of Cherries. I highly recommend this quaint spot in the middle of nowhere! C’est Paris.
We saved dessert for our favorite little spot near rue St. Paul. It’s the green place…ha! Just renovated, Le Bouquet St. Paul is the best people watching spot in Paris. John and Sharon Tyson agree. Dessert was a homemade chocolate tart…sinful. We sat for several hours just enjoying the day which is such a Parisian thing to do. Le joie de vivre!
Our stroll included one of the great fresh fruit markets along St. Antoine. It’s such fun to watch the markets morph with colors as the seasons change.
Bernie suggested we go back out for a light snack about 7 and we tried a new place in our area on rue de Turenne called La Banquette. Great choice where we meet delightful folks from New Orleans and one student from Texas studying in Belgium. They offered a very different menu from the standard which was refreshing.
So, what’s the message in today’s post? Never come to Paris without spending a day in Le Marais. As you see, there was nothing spectacular on our agenda but truly a day that defined the best of Paris.
À bientôt
L & B
Peggy B
September 14, 2022 @ 8:17 am
That is the best way to spend a day in Paris! Just strolling, eating, people watching, and tippling. So glad you enjoyed it.
lspalla
September 14, 2022 @ 8:41 am
Did you all know the story about Le Petit Musc?
Monica & Marlyn
September 14, 2022 @ 10:55 am
I feeling a “Le Petit Musc” drawing coming on! Your wanderings in Paris always provide inspiration, Linda!
Cindi
September 14, 2022 @ 11:32 am
What a colorful, informative, and upbeat post! I truly enjoyed your photos as well as your narrative.
Ellen Marks
September 14, 2022 @ 1:02 pm
Hi Linda, Fellow Huntsville folks here. Interesting you mentioned the Bonnie restaurant but you mentioned it was in Le Felicite and it is not, it is in SO/Paris Hotel. We spent 4 nights there last week, just after it’s opening and had several breakfasts in the restaurant Bonnie. The view is outstanding from the fully glassed restaurant on the 15th floor. We also had drinks several nights in the rooftop bar, again with fantastic views especially with a full moon. Our room had wonderful views of the city including the sparkling of the Eiffel Tower. I have pictures of these views if interested.
lspalla
September 14, 2022 @ 2:03 pm
Yes, I understand there are two entrances and obviously we went to the wrong one. We’ll try again.
lspalla
September 15, 2022 @ 6:21 pm
We went back again today and found the Marche and gardens and sneaked our way into the lobby bar. The bartender couldn’t have been nicer. Had a drink and sat for a while taking in the atmosphere. The whole project is called Le Felicite it seems and the hotel is the SO Hotel.
PAT
September 14, 2022 @ 2:39 pm
You may have covered this, but how is the labor situation over there? I’m sure you’re good at converting euros, but how about weights and liquid measurements?
lspalla
September 14, 2022 @ 7:41 pm
The euro and dollar are equal right now…first time ever for us. The other measurements, I’m not so great at but learning to decipher the outside temps in Celsius.
Nancy Colin
September 14, 2022 @ 2:42 pm
I am thinking that when you come home that you could just pretend that you are still in Paris and continue the blog. It has been the best way to start my day! Thank you!
Nancy
lspalla
September 14, 2022 @ 7:42 pm
Very sweet of you to say, Nancy!
Kathleen
September 14, 2022 @ 9:11 pm
Would you mind extending your trip at least for a month because it’s such a treat to have your blog along with my coffee. You take me back to my favorite city and today you highlighted the restaurant in the Marais that we found probably 4+ years ago. Hopefully I’ll be in Paris shape next year.
Keep well and thank you.
lspalla
September 15, 2022 @ 6:30 am
Appreciate your comments and ALL the comments so very much! Wish we could stay another month, but alas, it’s time to go home.
Natalie
September 15, 2022 @ 4:59 am
That summer salad looks delightful!
Ann Rivard
September 15, 2022 @ 4:41 pm
We shall all miss the wonderful markets with beautiful fruits and vegetables. Our farmers’ markets cannot compare to these. I agree with Nancy Colin that we would all love it if you would continue your blog upon your return home. It lights up our days immensely!
Donna Rush
September 20, 2022 @ 1:48 pm
I am relieved that you are recovering. I will certainly miss this fabulous escape. I have appreciated your posts even more this year. Wishing you a safe journey home.