No Place to Hide from the Heat – Un Canicule à Paris
It’s 98 degrees today in Paris, and oh, how we dread the late afternoon. It certainly saps all the enjoyment out of our day. Supposedly, we will have a huge rain storm on Friday evening to clear the stagnant air and cool down the temps. We’re praying for it as my sinuses are about to explode from the dust.The French call this heat wave a canicule. It doesn’t seem to bother them as much as us. They simply persist as they always do with whatever comes along. I believe it’s in their genes.
This time of year, life is slowing down for the locals who are leaving on “vacance,” some businesses are closing, and others are being gutted for a complete redo. For example, the wonderful boucherie or butcher shop where we buy our roasted chickens is undergoing a total renovation. It’s nothing but a shell as of yesterday. Not as many things close as years ago, and the city is still PACKED with tourists. Hopefully, that will settle as we approach August. The seafood market at the Monoprix has also shut down much to my dismay as well as the closest verger or fruit stand.
My best news of the day is I believe we have found a new apartment for next year right here in our beloved area of the Marais, just across from the St. Paul subway station. After hours and hours of searching, I saw one this morning on line at Paristay.com. It is in a much newer building, has a lift, is air-conditioned, no steps inside, and is less expensive. It’s also a 1000 square feet! Oddly enough, they won’t allow a booking until 6 months out but be sure that I will keep a watchful eye when the first opportunity arises. It will sleep 6 but only has 1 bathroom. We’ll definitely make do with that. Hopefully, much quieter. We’ve loved our spot here at 42 rue St. Paul, but it’s very noisy and busy and showing its age. Bernie wants to celebrate his 80th birthday here in Paris so our travel dates will likely be well into the fall of 2019. Seeing the Christmas decorations at Les Galeries Lafayette and along the Champs as well as shopping the Christmas markets would be fantastic. Who knows what the future holds, but we will stay hopeful that good health will prevail.
Our lunch out today was at Mariage Frères, a famous tea room with locations around the world. It’s located on rue Bourg du Tibourg.It’s always a treat and reminiscent of a time when the British ruled in Indo China. AND it is air-conditioned! The waiters are dressed in white linen, the tea offerings are voluminous, and the food quite eclectic and delicious. This year they were offering iced tea. Ours was green tea with mint.
I ordered a form of Croque Madame which arrived in a big black box. When the waiter dramatically removed the top, here’s what I saw to my delight.
Bernie ordered a form of beef tartare with dill, parsley, green beans, sesame seeds, and cashew nuts all in a sweet red sauce infused with exotic tea . The beef was hidden on the bottom. He ate every bite!
My meal included a dessert from the pastry cart. It was so light it tasted like air and rested on a bed of almonds with cherry filling in the middle. Of course, it included infusion of tea. Never got the name…sorry.
The street shot of the day was taken afterward in the BHV (our big department store) while we were looking for some electronics. Such a beautiful hairdo!
This afternoon and tonight we hunker down for dinner in the apartment and try to stay cool! No walking around in 98 degrees for these two old folks!!
Vive Le Tour,
L & B
July 26, 2018 @ 1:34 pm
And to think iced tea is a southern thing. Love the dessert photo.
July 26, 2018 @ 3:18 pm
First time reading your post ! I love it !
Are you British or American ?
Keep writing I enjoyed it ! 😊🇫🇷🇺🇸
July 26, 2018 @ 3:34 pm
I’m American, trying to learn to be French. Merci beaucoup for joining on the blog! I date a Parisian and this is our 15th summer here.
July 26, 2018 @ 3:44 pm
I loved the tea room! What fun and delicious….. you both look marvelous.
July 26, 2018 @ 4:04 pm
I’m so sorry you’re experiencing the canicule but as always it is a total joy to read your blog. So excited for you about autumn 2019 and will keep all fingers and toes firmly crossed for getting that great-sounding apartment!
I always say any time is the best time for Paris but if I had to pick JUST ONE it would without doubt be the months Oct-Dec. Yay!!! and happy early 80th to Bernie!! Hope we can help you celebrate one way or another in Paris 🙂
Every bit of your lunch looked delicious. All positive thoughts for tomorrow’s rain xx
July 26, 2018 @ 4:06 pm
Lunch was delicious!
July 26, 2018 @ 4:45 pm
I can really feel your discomfort about the heat. I was in Paris that awful summer of 1976, and the only place to be found with air conditioning was an ice cream parlor on the Champs d’Elyssee. Your lunch looks great.
July 26, 2018 @ 8:04 pm
I’m sure there are plenty of good reasons, but I’ve wondered why y’all schedule your visit in the summer. Seems like fall or spring would be more comfortable and maybe less crowded. Has the Thanksgiving store opened? They new apartment sounds great – hope it works out.
July 26, 2018 @ 8:16 pm
Unfortunately, it appears that the Thanksgiving store is closed for good.The summers were not so hot ten or twelve years ago. They seem to get worse each year.
July 26, 2018 @ 8:26 pm
Will keep our fingers crossed you get that other apt. Sounds as if it’d be heavenly. And what fun visiting in the fall with Christmas upcoming. Keep healthy. We’re falling apart. Will catch you up when you return.😘
July 27, 2018 @ 5:51 am
Oh, dear. That doesn’t sound good. Hope it isn’t Charles’ hip.
July 27, 2018 @ 2:13 am
Linda, the Paris heat reminds me of the two dumbest mules my dad had when we lived in Oklahoma. One hot summer dad had left the mules in the barn and it got so hot in that barn that the popcorn up in the loft started popping. Those stupid mules thought it was snowing and froze to death!
July 27, 2018 @ 5:49 am
Johnny, I knew I had missed you!!
July 27, 2018 @ 2:25 am
I hope you get the new apartment. It sounds like all things things your current apartment isn’t. I always love your dining experiences. The pictures are enticing and your descriptions enhance the photos.
Deborah S Taylor
July 27, 2018 @ 1:07 pm
You two always make the best of any situation…hot or cold! So enjoy your blog…hope for the best for your “new” apartment and a fall retreat in 2019!