Strolling Discoveries in Paris
Bonjour,
If you have a copy of my book Bernie’s Paris, you may recall an entire chapter on strolling in Paris, or becoming a flaneur. Oh, for sure, you can schedule, plan, make reservations, and rush from museum to museum, but it is the strolling that opens up surprise and discovery. For us, that is the ultimate magic of Paris. It brings to mind the word lollygag – to spend time aimlessly or to dawdle. That summarizes part of yesterday. The weather was quite cool and cloudy in the morning but with sun by the afternoon.
On the way to finding Jim Bilbro’s suggestion of a new market, we ran across a forgotten shop on Boulevard Beaumarchais called Merci. We haven’t visited it in years. Some of you know it. The front part was under renovation but the rest of the store was open and available having gifts, housewares, and clothing for both men and women. It sports a beautiful garden. When in Paris for your next visit, check it out.
The market Jim recommended, Maison Plisson, was closed for renovation (it’s August) and we laughed at ourselves for never noticing this. We’ve walked past it a dozen times at least. Something to see in September.
We made our way over to rue du Turenne via rue St. Claude, alongside the church of the same name. It’s on our bus route (#96) and we’ve passed it but never gone inside. It’s a very uncared for church, Romanesque in style and built in 1836 if I remember correctly. It was dark and dingy but OH what a surprise we found: a beautiful original Delacroix. Also a series of tile pieces conveying the stations of the cross. 
Lunch was next on our agenda and I remembered a recommendation from Richard Nahem’s partner, Vincent, about a cute little spot called JiJi. It is Japanese and offered some interesting choices. Bernie had Fish and Chips but no, not like any you’ve ever had in the States. The fish was lightly battered and fried salmon. And the “chips” were mashed sweet potatoes all enhanced with some wasabi sauce. I had a Poke Veggie bowl and hot jasmine tea . Everything was delicious! It was pretty cool but we sat outside anyway in some very nice cafe chairs. The police on horseback entertained us as one guy was riding his horse with only one hand because he was looking at his phone!
Suddenly, our day got committed: finding something my granddaughter Avery wants for her birthday at one of the larger pharmacies and then returning to a nail shop I used last year for a much-needed pedicure. The gal did a fantastic job and I feel like a new person!
We joined the Bilbro’s for a lovely dinner at Le Petit Commines just a block down the street from our apartment. It’s a tiny restaurant with very friendly, helpful staff who thoroughly explained the menu and wine suggestions…which takes a while! They have 1000 bottles of wine all displayed around the walls. It was a gastronomic experience. It’s hard to pull that off with Jim, but I think they succeeded. It’s pricey but fun. I’m using many of Jim’s photos so “merci, monsieur.”
It’s nice to wake up and have no great ambitions for the day. Try it!
À bientôt
L & B
August 18, 2022 @ 5:58 am
63 euros for a pedicure???? wow!! I live in NYC, and I have never had one near that price! Is there a reason it was so expensive, or is that the usual price in Paris?.
You mention also that you are living in a different quartier now and you miss the old one….. I understand one gets attached to a certain area, but may I ask where you were and (obviously roughly ) where you are now????? Im curious!! . You seem to be in the Marais which is really centrally located. I lived in Paris for some 10 years, it is my favorite City! I went to University there and then came back to live.
thanks
Enjoy!
EAA
August 18, 2022 @ 6:33 am
I had a gel pedicure which lasts at least a couple of months. I pay $60 in Huntsville, AL where we live so not a huge difference.
We have been in the St. Paul area of Le Marias for 15 years. St. Antoine has everything at your fingertips: 4 grocery stores including a Monoprix, a dry cleaners, cheese shops, chocolate shops, a wonderful deli, fabulous shopping for ladies clothes, shoe shops, the beautiful St. Paul/St. Louis church where I went to pray on Sunday mornings, a million little cafés, 3 large pharmacies, 3 great fruit stands, multiple shops for getting your hair done…all without a few steps of our apartment door. We do miss it! Now we’re just a block down from La Place de la Republique on rue du Temple. Not my favorite area but I’m trying.
August 18, 2022 @ 6:35 am
And I forgot to mention at least 4 good boulongeries and patisseries! Most important for baguettes and croissants.
August 18, 2022 @ 8:43 am
Hi Linda
Too early here to really delve into both locations, but I do know roughly where each one is, of course.. Paris, like NYC, usually has everything within a few blocks! I wonder if it is just getting used to a new area. Change is always difficult, jarring,,, and fave places are of course fave places! And fave places, known places, are where one tends to go back it. I live in the same area of NYC I grew up in, so I understand that! But im okay, I do go all around the City! Especially for food! ( ha!) And I explore the outer boroughs, especially for food, interesting sights, cultural reasons etc…
I must confess have never had a gel manicure, much less a pedicure. But if they are $60 and more! wow, I guess I wont!! . I try to take the time to have a pedicure at least one a month, I like the pampering. And getting rid of (Shhhhh!) the calluses which build up from walking here. but at 10-15 dollars here for a pedicure ( we have much competition so prices are lower I guess )once or twice a month is very doable. Im now curious to see if anyone offers a gel pedicure here, Ive never heard of it before!.. I also buy a Japanese product which I discovered a few years ago, called Happy Feet. I do that at home once a month to pamper my feet. So in the end I probably spend as much, just spread out.
Enjoy the rest of your stay. Hope you stay till Sept when Berthillon reopens. Caramel au buerre salé is the best!
August 18, 2022 @ 10:00 am
Yes, we will be in Paris until September 24. Berthillon is all over the place but most especially on Ile St. Louis.
August 18, 2022 @ 10:31 am
When I lived in Paris, Berthillon on the Ile Saint-Louis closed for all of August.. they were part of Les Aoûtiens. Amazing o me that an ice cream store which should have made the largest part of sales during the summer, actually closed for August!! I am not on PRIs during August any more, but I understand they are still closed till the rentrée! There was always some thing so magical to get a melangé there and sit along the Seine. Even now when I have the money to get one more frequently than once a month , it is still magical! But then it brings backs memories of days long gone by!
August 18, 2022 @ 12:37 pm
Sounds as though you love Paris as much as we do. FYI, a gel pedicure uses a special gel polish that is expensive and is hardened by an ultra-violet light. That’s why it lasts so much longer.
August 18, 2022 @ 11:01 am
What a joy to find surprise artwork! And the Japanese place sounds wonderful. Isn’t it fun how you can keep finding new things, after all these years?
August 18, 2022 @ 12:40 pm
Yes, the Delacroix was a real treat!
August 18, 2022 @ 11:14 am
I am enjoying your new discoveries and seeing your time with the Bilbao’s.
August 18, 2022 @ 12:40 pm
Merci, are you guys in town for a while?
August 18, 2022 @ 11:53 am
Looks like a delightful day!
August 18, 2022 @ 12:39 pm
Getting back into the 80’s today. I so hope it stays some cooler. I haven’t dealt with the heat very well this time. Tell Avery I found her birthday gifts!!
August 18, 2022 @ 2:20 pm
“Wandering” is such a wonderful way to be able to spend a day!!! that is such a benefit of they way you are able to travel and live in Paris!! Thx for sharing it all.
August 18, 2022 @ 10:04 pm
Happy your life has slowed down a bit. I know the street you are staying on. It has a lot of wholesale businesses on it. We stayed in the Jules and Jim hotel in June and walked rue de Temple frequently. The hotel is a wonderful find if any friends need a place to stay near to you. Also the restaurant Terra on Rue Gravilliers is a gem. I’m enjoying all your reportage on Paris as it is my favorite city in Europe.
August 19, 2022 @ 6:28 am
Thanks for the recommendations.
August 19, 2022 @ 8:27 am
Bonnie, after checking this I see that you are referencing rue de Temple. We are on Boulevard du Temple which is a totally different area!
August 19, 2022 @ 1:02 pm
Linda,
Ah yes, Blvd de Temple is farther east. That area is more a mixed bag, as you have said. And yes, a little farther west it is more interesting with more to see and do.