Two Days of Special Memories in Paris
Bonjour mes amis,
It’s still quite cool in Paris but expected to warm up by the weekend into the high 70s. The city is eerily quiet with almost no traffic. Yes, it makes for better sleeping but doesn’t seem like Paris. Things will crank up by the end of the month when shops open back up and locals return from vacation.
Our plumbing issue with the kitchen sink continues with no immediate hope in sight making it difficult to maneuver. So very frustrating. If I were looking to start a vocation in Paris, I would become a plumber because there don’t seem to be any!
On Tuesday, we chose to go to the area around Place Victor Hugo in the ritzy 16th arrondissement where Bernie grew up. It’s a lovely area but pretty forlorn right now as many shops and restaurants are closed permanently or because it’s August. Here’s a recap of our stroll which ended on the Champs Elysées. It was a nice long walk, especially since we headed in the wrong direction for the first half mile! Suddenly, Bernie stopped when I pointed out a sign to the Bois de Bologna to which he exclaimed, “We need to turn around.”
Yesterday, Bernie suggested another memory-ladden stroll on the Left Bank dating back to our first trip to Paris years ago. We started at Pont Marie and ended the night at one of the most famous and iconic restaurants in Paris, Le Coupe Chou.
Quoting Urbansider.com, “The service is attentive and yet discreet. The decor is old-school French: charming, inviting, and cozy with plush velvety furniture and the warmth of a fireplace set ablaze on colder days. The restaurant has several rooms spread throughout three buildings; among them a library, a barber’s hall, a Conciergerie, and an English-inspired dining room….Le Coupe Chou has that certain je ne sais quoi that is quintessentially French, and you will leave with the feeling that you experienced one of those rare moments of perfection that can only happen in a classic Parisian restaurant.” Indeed!
The menu is very limited right now indicative of COVID, we presume. And the restaurant was far from full. However, our memory of the first time still makes us smile. After landing in Paris early in the morning, dropping our bags off at the hotel, rushing to see the Eiffel Tower with hours of waiting and coming back to check in to the hotel, we were starving. The host said, “Oh, just go up the street (always a warning sign in Paris) and you’ll find one of the most famous restaurants in Paris, Le Coupe Chou. So I in my heels trudged up the step cobble-stoned street trying to find the restaurant. I knew nothing!!!! about anything French. The restaurant was jam-packed, and we zig-zagged through the whole place to a tiny corner where I ordered chicken. It was the worst fried chicken leg I ever tried to consume. We laugh about it still! Here’s a good look at the inside.
Here are our lovers of the day which we got last evening walking home. Jim Bilbro, we tried to catch bus #86 but could never find the stop! So we walked all the way home, burning up those calories.
I failed to mention that on Monday, I colored my hair myself (yikes) and today will try to find a place for a haircut. Always, slightly scary.
We read about all the troubles at home with much sadness. Please everyone, wear your masks!
L & B
August 19, 2021 @ 10:46 am
The picture of you and Bernie is fabulous! You both look terrific and so happy. Definitely the real lovers of the day!
Loved all the memories you shared too.
August 19, 2021 @ 1:14 pm
Lynne Berry Vallely
August 19, 2021 @ 12:01 pm
WOW, this is my favorite post so far! I had to laugh – I was scrolling down and saw the beginnings of the shoe photo and thought “Shoes!” And then saw you posted it for me! LOVE the photo of you two, your hair looks GREAT! And love love love that restaurant except it’s so empty. Small figures at patisserie, Bernie’s neighborhood, Romeo, etc. – wonderful! Thank you!!
August 19, 2021 @ 1:13 pm
Merci, Lynne! So glad you enjoyed the post.
August 19, 2021 @ 12:38 pm
The street right outside Le Coupe Chou is Rue Jean de Beauvais. Walk down it to The Blvd Saint-Germain, turn right and it’s right there – Maubert-Mutualité. Either 86 or 87 would have taken you back to Bastille. Le Coupe Chou was the first nice restaurant that I went to 35 years ago, the english menu was on a sheet of typing paper!
August 19, 2021 @ 1:12 pm
We thought there would be a stop right across the street from where we got off of #86 as we rode the bus right to rue des Ecoles. Construction was everywhere.
August 19, 2021 @ 12:41 pm
That is a superb picture of you and Bernie. I can’t emphasize this enough!! Frame it please!!
August 19, 2021 @ 1:10 pm
August 19, 2021 @ 12:57 pm
I truly enjoyed your pictures of different buildings and unique doors. I’m so happy we got to see Bernie’s neighborhood and where he grew up when we were there. Le Coup-Chou looked old world charming.
August 19, 2021 @ 1:15 pm
Merci, Cindi. I bought your b’day present today!
August 19, 2021 @ 1:14 pm
Wow, talk about a “Sentimental Journey”!!! Great post and the pics were, as always terrific.
August 19, 2021 @ 1:49 pm
Wonderful photos and stroll down memory lane. We’ve had many a lovely meal at the Coupe Chou. It has always been jam packed when we have been there so I appreciated all the photos. Loved the photo of you and Bernie. Yes, you should frame it! We miss Paris already! Rainy hot and humid here.
August 19, 2021 @ 2:06 pm
We miss you guys here!
August 19, 2021 @ 2:13 pm
I love all of your posts!!!! The pictures Are incredible!!!
August 19, 2021 @ 4:45 pm
James W. Bilbro
August 19, 2021 @ 2:18 pm
When the 86 is going in the direction of the Champ de Mars, it goes along the Rue des Ecoles, when it is returning going toward the Bastille it goes along Saint-Germain.
August 19, 2021 @ 4:44 pm
Okay, I will make sure Bernie knows this.
August 19, 2021 @ 3:30 pm
Yes, I agree that this is a favorite post, Lynne and Linda!! I felt like I was there as I usually do, but more so this time. I love the solitude you all are experiencing. What a benefit! I never need crowds. That terrific photo should be painted, Linda. Find a great portrait artist back home who can do it. Or make a big enlargement for a gorgeous frame. What a gift! You look so relaxed and happy!
Enjoy the quiet of an elegant historic city. In Montgomery, by contrast, we have constant traffic with loud mufflers, booming sounds emitting, and constant sirens on Narrow Lane — just three houses from me. And trash everywhere as people whole eat fast food throw out the whole sack at stop signs, etc. I’m sorry to mention that but I just want you to know that I envy your trip so much. The editorial you sent me by messenger is the wallpaper for all this. .. So PLEASE enjoy quiet Paris pour moi! And thank you so much for sharing with us this lovely blog. Merci beaucoup!
Love to you both, Jeanie
August 19, 2021 @ 4:41 pm
We think of you around every corner with fondness!
August 19, 2021 @ 3:39 pm
Fantastic opening photo!! Love the kitties in the pasterie pics. I would love to see where Bernie lived if I get to come again…I teared up also thinking of him playing around that lamp post. It’s like it’s stuck in time and you can visualize it like it was yesterday. Love the pics and info of the restaurant. Lastly, were the pics before/after your hair color – anxious to see! 🙂
August 19, 2021 @ 4:43 pm
After the color (which I did ) but before the cut. Just got it done. It’s okay, always scares me death. Glad you liked the post and do hope we and you have one more trip in us.
August 19, 2021 @ 6:22 pm
Linda, I so enjoyed your beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing the details about the photos as well. You both look fabulous! I hope you have a wonderful trip and I hope I get to return to visit one day soon.
August 19, 2021 @ 6:52 pm
Merci beaucoup! Hope you have a trip to Paris in your future.
Monica & Marlyn
August 20, 2021 @ 12:18 am
So nice to “watch” you two sharing memories, sentiment and some alone time. Though you are wonderful hosts and friends, it’s good to just be alone occasionally. Thanks for sharing. We’re living on the edge of a Covid Delta red zone here at home and getting more paranoid all the time. Booster shots can’t come quickly enough.
August 20, 2021 @ 3:57 am
Stay safe, you guys. Guess this all puts an October visit in jeopardy? What are you thinking?
August 26, 2021 @ 3:19 pm
I love the picture of the typical street on the left bank. I know it’s not ‘special’, but these are the places I love to wander and get lost in. Where I see native French people in their small shops with the doors open and their small dogs sitting in the doorway, Beautiful doors and buildings with stunning architecture.
August 26, 2021 @ 4:13 pm
So nice to hear from you!