A Warm Welcome in Alsace from Verdier Cousins
Bonjour from Alsace,
We were scheduled to leave Paris at 4pm on the 6th of July, expecting to be at our destination by 7pm. The TGV (high speed) train was an hour and a half late leaving Le Gare de Lyon because of a problem on the track. We never knew more than that, but it made most of the trains run behind. The station was so packed that it was impossible to walk, and it is a HUGE station with three floors. It was also 98 degrees! We were like wilted flowers when we finally arrived about 8:30. Pierre and Laurie Verdier were waiting for us and provided a usual lovely dinner when we arrived at their home in Soultz. We were eager to visit but dropped into bed close to midnight.
As I told Laurie, visiting in Soultz is like coming home for us. The atmosphere is so relaxing; everything is spotlessly clean; the dinner table is laden with exquisite linens, fine china and crystal; the best of wines are served along with a delightful French menu. Always, the start is with a glass of Ricard and hors d’oeuvres. Here is an example:
Bernard and Pierre walk two miles each morning to get the fresh bread for the day and the daily newspaper. Laurie and I were off to the Grand Frais (like our Fresh Market) for anchovies, fresh fruits and some Roquefort cheese, especially for Bernie.
After lunch, our programme for the afternoon was a visit to Le Musée de Papier Peint in Rixheim. I lift a quote from their brochure: “Few buildings in Haute Alsace have as much elegance as the Commanderie of Rixheim, constructed from 1735 to 1738 for the Teutonic Knights (of the era of the Knights Templar). It is in this exceptional scene that wallpaper has been manufactured since 1797 and where the museum opened its doors in 1983.” Today this building serves as the City Hall or L’Hotel de Ville.
The ground floor allowed photo-taking, and I again lift some verbiage from the museum brochure: “The machinery room presents step by step the production of wallpaper from the image to the printing blocks as well as a spectacular sixteen colors surface printing machine.”
The museum was visited by Ronald Reagan years ago because a very famous piece of wallpaper during the presidency of J.F. Kennedy was used to decorate the walls of the Diplomatic Reception room of the White House. It is still there today. George Bush wanted to remove it, but Laura Bush said “no.” There is a famous picture of Obama standing in front of this wallpaper in the White House. Though no photos were allowed upstairs, I did sneak a photo of this famous section quickly. It shows the Battle of Yorktown and the surrender of Cornwallis to George Washington. Le Marquis de Lafayette was present.
The upstairs of the museum is full of breathtaking panoramics of world scenes as well as examples of what kinds of wallpaper they can produce today with modern technology. Unfortunately, just a rogue photo of two from my phone. I didn’t want to get thrown out!
The day ended with a visit to Laurie’s parents in Pulversheim (the home of the wolves…the “p” was originally a “w”).
Today, we are off to Baume Les Dames to visit Bernie’s other cousins who are both in failing health. Sadly, it may be our last time to visit with them.
À bientôt,
L & B
CarolynB
July 8, 2017 @ 8:49 am
What a wonderful post! The musée looks beautiful inside and out and your writing and photos really bring it to life. Have to smile over ‘rogue’ photos 🙂
Those travel delays are never fun — glad you made it to your lovely destination. And yay Bernie likes Roquefort!
Enjoy that special family time as I’m sure you are. So bittersweet when loved ones are not well. All best wishes x
lspalla
July 8, 2017 @ 9:21 am
The museum was a wonderful surprise, and your comments always so warm and special!
CarolynB
July 9, 2017 @ 5:04 pm
Oh merci, Linda – must be reflecting your lovely writing 🙂
Wish we could get together again before you leave but looks unlikely. My Aussie stepson has a surprise business trip to London and is visiting us next week. I know you’ll enjoy your remaining time in our beloved Paris and maybe we can lure you over sometime around the holidays!
Debbie Dryer
July 8, 2017 @ 11:35 am
What a lovely museum! Glad you didn’t get thrown out over the “rogue” photos (ha). Really enjoyed this post. Fun times with family are the best!
Cindi
July 8, 2017 @ 12:58 pm
The museum was fascinating! Reminder of days gone by in the printing of newspapers “, back in the day”. Enjoy your family time, it is precious.
Deborah S Taylor
July 8, 2017 @ 1:04 pm
Wow! What a fabulous museum! Thanks for posting the information on how the printing was done…amazing that images come out so wonderfully. As usual, your photos lift my heart…I start the day with your travels. Safe travels to your next destination!
lspalla
July 8, 2017 @ 1:07 pm
Merci, Deborah!
Peggy H Simpson
July 8, 2017 @ 2:59 pm
THANK YOU …Linda and Bernie…so wonderful.
Pat O'Brien
July 8, 2017 @ 7:06 pm
I remember the visit to Bernie’s family last year. Like last year, they seem to sincerely enjoy having you come by and they put some effort into seeing that you enjoy your stay. The pictures of the machinery and printed explanations explained the process well – very interesting. If you don’t quit taking pictures of forbidden subjects – the upstairs today and the little girl on the subway the other day, we are going to have to all pitch in to bail you out of jail.
lspalla
July 8, 2017 @ 8:30 pm
Tis true. I promise to be better!
Natalie
July 10, 2017 @ 8:18 am
Really neat – would love to see that museum in person some day! Oh that garlic…do you eat it whole?! I do love garlic 🙂
lspalla
July 10, 2017 @ 8:58 am
Nat, the wallpaper was amazing at the museum. So tempting to want to take pictures. And yes, we eat the garlic whole. It doesn’t taste as strong prepared this way.
Lynne Berry Vallely
July 25, 2017 @ 9:47 pm
Hey, how about the recipe for marinated squash filled with goat cheese and Parmesan?????????