Shopping Guide for Paris
Bonjour,
Well, a day of rain turned into mostly a cool day of sunshine which was great. We did go out to La Defense and found the massive shopping center called 4 Temps, the Four Seasons, to be very much alive and with only a few changes since the pandemic. It has 230 boutiques and is the most visited shopping center in France! One change that was unexpected was a 30-cent charge for using their public restrooms! I had nothing but a 50 euro bill so the attendant let me pass without paying.
The area is under a great deal of construction but we did sneak a few views of the Grande Arche de la Défense and the skyscrapers.
As our days wind down, I thought it might be interesting to give you a shopping primer for Paris through my eyes which is by no means meant to be an expert opinion!
The hardest thing to write is that the Champs Elysées is no longer perceived as the grand shopping avenue of Paris. The locals shun it because it is mainly “tourists and immigrants,” expensive cafés, and a likely place to run into a pick pocket. The delightful, off-shoot passages with interesting local shops have all closed and what remains are mostly chain stores like the Monoprix and Zara. There are a few exceptions like the Apple Store in the beautifully redesigned apartment building and of course, Louis Vuitton where there are always long queues. It remains to be seen if Les Galeries Lafayette makes it there permanently. Despite the negatives, Les Champs is still a must-see icon because of the Arc de Triomphe and its history.
The haute couture areas of Paris for both men and women are Avenue Montaigne, Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré near Place Vendome, George Cinq, Avenue de l’Opéra, Rue Royale leading up to and around La Madeleine, and St. Germain on the Left Bank. They are all fun to stroll but terribly expensive. My body reacts negatively to all the stimuli, and I am just overwhelmed!
In the Marais, the family-owned shops that were so plentiful and quaint are sadly fewer and fewer. We can count at least eight or nine that have closed in our memory bank. Mostly the children and grandchildren of the owners have no passion for being a shopkeeper with all the headaches, long hours, etc. But the Marais is still a lively area with rue Franc-Bourgeois claiming the top spot. It’s nuts on the weekend and basically becomes a pedestrian street. Also the rue des Rosiers has wonderful but expensive shops along with the famous walk-up kiosks for falafel when you need a break. There are dozens of little off-shoots worth strolling with surprises around every corner.
For regular folk not looking to spend thousands, there are the shopping malls located mostly below ground such as Les Halles or Le Carousel de Louvre. Also major thoroughfares like rue St. Antoine, rue de Rivoli and rue de Rennes have dozens of nice shops that are affordable. The major department stores have a bit of everything from medium price to high dollar: the BHV in the Marais, Les Galeries Lafayette, Au Printemps, Le Bon Marche and now the reopened Samaritaine. It’s amazing to me how well these stores continue to do in Paris as we watch more and more of them close in the USA.
Every section of Paris has a weekly street market. Thanks to Jim Bilbro for this handy reference. https://www.paris.fr/pages/les-marches-parisiens-2428. This is where I do the best because I’m pretty frugal and don’t do much with designer brands. My money goes other places like 3 months in Paris! There are a few good bargains, and then there’s also just a bunch of junk. It’s fun to discern which is which. The biggest markets are the Bastille on Sunday mornings and the Marche Aux Puces or huge flea market at the end of Metro Clignoncourt. It’s only open on the weekends. Mondays are for dealers or so I understand. It’s a hoot and you must go at least once.
The other thing to remember when planning a trip are the twice-yearly sales or Les Soldes happening for most of the months of January and July. The discounts continue to increase up to as much as 70% off but of course, the selection dwindles.
It wouldn’t be Paris without the souvenir shops which are scattered all around especially near famous landmarks. They are all the same but I find the pricing the best at Montmartre. Sure, the goods are cheap but it’s fun to remember a few folks at home with a gift that doesn’t break the bank. Les Galeries Lafayette actually has the classiest selection of souvenirs on their top floor.
So, to summarize, my best bargains in Paris have been belts and scarves. So much more to choose from than in the US. And, oh yes, for the guys, there is one area of the Marais on rue de Turenne which has only shops for men!
Paris is so much more than shopping at least by my standards but you must come and see for yourself! I would vote for eating over shopping any day!
L & B
September 9, 2022 @ 10:00 am
What a good shopping guide! You’ve got it all figured out! Glad you made it out to La Defense. As you know, I go for the photos, but it is nice to pop into 4 Temps for a look-see and maybe a snack. There is a very nice mall called Beaugrenelle out towards the Parc Andre Citroën. We enjoy checking out the stores and then strolling over to the Île au Cygnes for a look at one of the Statues of Liberty, and at the other end several nice restaurants. It doesn’t seem to be on the tourist route so that is an added pleasure.
September 9, 2022 @ 12:33 pm
Just had lunch with our friend Hannah who lives near the Beaugrenelle mall. We’ve been there a couple of times.
September 9, 2022 @ 10:50 am
It sounds like there are stores and markets for every shoppers budget in many different locations. It’s fun to window shop in expensive spots and know there are other spots for reasonable purchases.
September 9, 2022 @ 11:38 am
Despite my interest in fashion, I’m not a good shopper and just continue to live in my “boy wardrobe” year after year. I’d choose food and artwork anytime! It was quite interesting to see the modern buildings today. Some might not like them, but I enjoyed the views.
September 9, 2022 @ 12:47 pm
Fully agree- food over clothes any day!!!!!
September 9, 2022 @ 6:48 pm
It’s interesting to see the more modern buildings. Seems to be an entire section of new, rather than new mixed with old. There may be rules of what can be built where. Also, that you know Marais so well that you recognize the shops that have closed. You’ve supplied great tips for someone planning a visit to Paris.
September 10, 2022 @ 5:10 am
Actually, these sky scrapers are modern in comparison but they are not new. La Defense area of business was started in 1958 with many of the buildings going up in the 70’s. It’s the Manhattan of Paris.
September 10, 2022 @ 6:26 pm
Linda, Like you I am sad to see such a change over of type of stores in the Marais. Having visited it over more than 15 years, I have seen it go from funky, quirky family run boutiques, to high end brands that appeal to the 20-40 year olds. I don’t begrudge them their shopping fun also, but wish there were more of a mix of stores. That said, the Maris still has a cache that is there in spite of the changes. I love to visit, stroll, and “leche vitrine” ( Window shop) many times on my visits.
The best shop for the savron de Marseilles is on Rue Turenne just up for Rue Franc-Bougeois. But you probably already have visited this shop. Enjoy the more typical Paris weather in the coming days.
September 12, 2022 @ 3:26 am
What a great post!! I loved this one! First off, the Grande Arche de la Défense and other high rise area…so not Paris! Too new, shiny & corporate, ha! I love your thoughts on all of the shopping. I do LOVE buying souvenirs for people back home and have taken your advice to stock up mainly in Montmartre. I adore the market shopping! Love your comment about being frugal b/c most of your money goes to 3 months in Paris – indeed!! As you say all of these destinations, I can hear the voice recording in my head from line one…and miss it so. You know, one week in Paris at a time almost feels like I’m starting to catch on to the essence of the language and a huge desire for more. But then, it’s time to go home 🙁 However, yes, eating over shopping for the win!!
September 12, 2022 @ 5:28 am
La Defense is not my favorite area but we enjoy going at least once each trip. Yes, riding the subway lines is a great way to learn how to correctly pronounce things in French and also gives you a sense of direction.
September 12, 2022 @ 5:50 am
Glad you enjoyed this post. It took a while to write it. It’s so much cooler than when you were here.